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The classics

Meatloaf

No loaf tin, or it stews in its own fat

A meatloaf baked in a tin is a meatloaf boiled in its own fat, and Aunt Dorothy would not have one in the house. Hers is shaped free on a sheet pan so the fat can leave, the onion is grated instead of chopped so it disappears, and the ketchup and brown sugar go on for the last fifteen minutes only. Nine ingredients, six steps, and one instruction that is a refusal rather than an amount.

Serves 6 · prep 20 min · cook 1 hr 5 min · rest 10 min

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Meatloaf laid out as an image, Watercolor style

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The ingredients

  • 2 lb ground beef
  • 1 cup breadcrumbs
  • 2 egg
  • 1/2 cup whole milk
  • 1 yellow onion
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • 1/2 cup ketchup
  • 2 tbsp brown sugar
  • salt and pepper

How to make it

  1. Soak the breadcrumbs in the milk for five minutes, until they stop being bread and start being paste.
  2. Grate the onion instead of chopping it, and mix it with the beef, the eggs, the garlic and the soaked crumbs, with a big spoonful of salt and plenty of pepper.
  3. Work it with your hands only until it holds together, and stop there.
  4. Shape it free on a sheet pan rather than pressing it into a loaf tin, so the fat can leave.
  5. Bake at 350 °F for fifty minutes, then brush on the ketchup mixed with the brown sugar.
  6. Give it fifteen more minutes, then let it rest ten before the first slice.

What makes the difference. She never used a loaf tin. She said a tin makes the meat boil in its own fat, and that a meatloaf should be baked, not stewed.

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