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The classics

Biscuits and Gravy

Cut straight down, never twist

A biscuit that will not rise was usually killed by the cutter. Twisting seals the edge shut, and Papaw Earl cut straight down and lifted, every time. Frozen butter grated into the flour, the dough folded over itself four times, the biscuits baked touching each other so they climb. Eight ingredients, six steps, fourteen minutes at 450, and more black pepper in the gravy than feels reasonable.

Serves 6 · prep 20 min · cook 25 min

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The ingredients

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cup butter
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 1 tbsp baking powder
  • 1 lb breakfast sausage
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 1 tbsp black pepper
  • salt and pepper

How to make it

  1. Freeze the butter and grate it into the flour with the baking powder and the salt.
  2. Add the buttermilk cold and bring it together with a fork, until it is barely a dough.
  3. Fold it over on itself four times, pat it out, and cut straight down without twisting the cutter.
  4. Bake at 450 °F for fourteen minutes, with the biscuits touching each other on the pan.
  5. Brown the sausage hard, then stir a third of a cup of flour into its fat and cook it a minute.
  6. Add the cream slowly, whisking, and finish with far more black pepper than feels reasonable.

What makes the difference. You cut straight down and never twist. Twisting seals the edge, and a sealed biscuit cannot rise no matter how good the dough is.

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